YSL(Yves Saint Laurent)
Yves Saint Laurent himself said it best: “Chanel freed women, and I empowered them.” Founded in 1961, the legendary house that bears his name has given us a repertoire of fabled pieces (the Mondrian shift, Le Smoking, the safari jacket, the see-through dress) that offered a modern vocabulary of dressing that was confident, worldly, and sexually liberated.
- the legendary house that bears his name：因此這個(gè)牌子是一個(gè)eponymous fashion label,就是“以創(chuàng)立者名字命名的”商標(biāo)。很多時(shí)尚品牌都是以這種方式命名的，比如香奈兒（Chanel），以及本《英語發(fā)音系列》的前兩個(gè)路易威登（Louis Vuitton）和古馳（Gucci）等。
- Repertoire：/?r?p?twɑ?/，原意是“劇目”，來自于法語，而后者又來自于拉丁語repertōrium，意思是“catalogue, inventory”，引申為“the entire stock of things available in a field or of a kind”，也就是所有的“存貨”之意。在法語里“-oir”或者是“-oire”發(fā)/wɑ?/音，其他類似的單詞還有大家熟悉的reservoir，memoir（比如章子怡和鞏俐的《藝伎回憶錄》Memoirs of a Geisha）等。
- The Mondrian shift: 這是Yves Saint Laurent為了紀(jì)念荷蘭畫家皮特·蒙德里安（Piet Mondrian）而設(shè)計(jì)的系列，相信大家對這個(gè)設(shè)計(jì)圖樣并不陌生。這里的shift可不是“轉(zhuǎn)換”的意思，而是指的“a straight, loose-fitting dress worn with or without a belt.”也就是“A字裙”（A-line dress）。
- Le smoking: 1966年，Yves Saint Laurent設(shè)計(jì)了一款震驚時(shí)裝界的晚裝：精心裁剪的黑色“男式晚禮服”里面配上荷葉邊白色襯衫，他把它叫做“Le smoking”， 其中l(wèi)e是法語the的意思。這個(gè)設(shè)計(jì)撼動了當(dāng)時(shí)男女裝涇渭分明的時(shí)裝界，一些飯店不承認(rèn)這是合乎標(biāo)準(zhǔn)的晚裝，所以會拒絕穿著“l(fā)e smoking”服裝的女客戶入內(nèi)。據(jù)傳當(dāng)時(shí)有一位叫做Nan Kempner的社交名媛在被一個(gè)飯店拒絕以后，直接脫掉下面的褲裝（trousers），只穿上面的西服當(dāng)作一件迷你連衣裙（mini dress）,強(qiáng)烈地諷刺了那家飯店守舊地著裝要求（dress code），同時(shí)她這一舉動也被當(dāng)做“Saint Lauren Women”的典范而廣為流傳。
Saint Laurent and his long-time lover (and business alter ego), Pierre Bergé, founded the company in 1961, a year after the young designer was abruptly dismissed from Paris’s reigning couture house, Christian Dior, of which he had been the head. Within a few years of opening his own atelier, Saint Laurent was infusing his creations with the maverick spirit of the 1960s. “There is a new trend in fashion,” he declared. “It is young and strives for attractiveness rather than elegance.” It also strived for worldliness. A master of appropriation, Saint Laurent would venture into realms as diverse as the gay counterculture, the souks of Marrakech, and the steppes of Russia, plucking from them garments that were humble (peasant blouses, military trenchcoats) or ceremonial (African conical breastplates) and elevating them to the status of high fashion.
- Alter ego:另一個(gè)自己，說明兩人的關(guān)系之親密，除了是愛人，還是商業(yè)合作伙伴。
- Couture：來自法語，意思是“high-fashion designing and dressmaking”，也就是“高端服裝設(shè)計(jì)和制作”。有一個(gè)比較著名的牌子可能眾多女士會很熟悉，叫做Juicy Couture，他家的velour（天鵝絨）休閑裝很有名。請注意我的朗讀中這個(gè)單詞的發(fā)音。
- Atelier：來自法語，指的是“a workshop or studio, especially of an artist, artisan, or designer.”，也就是設(shè)計(jì)師的工作間。請注意我的朗讀中這個(gè)單詞的發(fā)音。
- Maverick：這個(gè)單詞來自美國德克薩斯州一位叫做Samuel A. Maverick (1803–70)的農(nóng)場主，他沒有給自己的牲畜打上烙印。從這個(gè)masterless（沒有主人）的意思又引申出 “a person of independent or unorthodox views”的意思，也就是獨(dú)樹一幟不拘一格的人。Yves Saint Laurent正是這樣的一個(gè)人，他的設(shè)計(jì)總是別出心裁，其理念大膽挑戰(zhàn)當(dāng)時(shí)的社會觀念。
- Appropriation：來自appropriate /??pr??pr?e?t/（注意這里這個(gè)單詞是動詞，所以發(fā)音和作為形容詞時(shí)略有不同），指的是“拿來使用，占用”（take possession of）
- Souks of Marrakech：這是法語里的拼寫，英語里面寫作Marrakesh，souk在阿拉伯語里面是“集市”的意思，所以這里指的是馬拉喀什的集市。
- the steppes of Russia：歐亞大草原
- Peasant blouses：也叫peasant top
Ultimately, Saint Laurent’s drug addiction and depression took their toll, and by the 1980s the designer was no longer innovating. When Gucci Group stepped in to acquire the financially ailing company in 1999, Tom Ford soon was given the job of creating ready-to-wear while Saint Laurent remained in charge of haute couture. Increasingly frail, the founder stepped down in 2002, shuttering the couture house and leaving Ford as sole creative captain.
- Take one’s toll：意思是“To affect, especially negatively”，這里“took their toll”中的“their”指的是“drug addiction and depression”。Saint Laurent的毒癮和抑郁癥嚴(yán)重影響了他的健康，到了20世紀(jì)80年代他已經(jīng)沒有新的設(shè)計(jì)出臺了。1999年，Gucci收購了這家財(cái)務(wù)窘迫的公司（financially ailing），Tom Ford掌管成衣（ready-to-wear）部門，而Saint Laurent則負(fù)責(zé)“haute couture”，也就是高端服裝部分。
- shuttering： to close (a store or business operations) for the day or permanently. 就是關(guān)店的意思。
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